HOT-IRON TRANSFER DIRECTIONS
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1. Cut out transfer, omitting any parts or
letters not desired. Leave a margin
around the lines for pinning.
2. Place transfer print-side down on
your fabric, cotton towel, pillowcase,
etc., and pin three corners (outside the
lines), so that it lays flat.
3. Use the DRY wool/cotton setting; no
steam. Apply iron for 5-10 seconds on
each area to be stamped. Do not slide
the iron back and forth, the transfer may
slip and lines will blur; use a firm
stamping motion instead.
4. Lift the unpinned corner to check
that lines are dark enough. Replace
transfer and apply more heat if
necessary.
- Begin by prewashing your fabric to
remove fillers and starches that may
scorch.
- Press to remove wrinkles; use a flat,
slightly padded surface to work on.
- Protect your ironing surface with an
old sheet or piece of heavy paper;
transfer lines may go through some
fabrics.
- Choose natural fabrics such as 100%
cotton, linen, hemp cloth, and muslin
(or any blend of these) for the best
results. Avoid synthetics; they can
melt and pucker under high heat, and
loose shape under the stretch of an
embroidery hoop.
- Use a DRY (no steam) iron, on a
medium-high setting. Always use the
TEST motifs provided in each pattern
to make sure the heat setting and
stamping time is correct. This can
vary depending on different fabrics,
irons, and temperature settings.
- Our transfers can give many
impressions, often 3 or more. Lines
will become darker the longer you
press. However don't apply iron
longer than necessary to avoid
scorching. This will also extend the
number of times you will be able to
use the transfers.
- Additional stampings may require a
little more time applying the iron,.
Cover transfer with a sheet of plain
paper if necessary, to avoid scorching
fabric.
- Placing a sheet of paper over a
transfer that has been trimmed too
close to the lines is also helpful to
prevent scorching.
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